Cima alla Genovese (Genoese Stuffed Veal Breast)

*Cima alla Genovese* is the celebratory stuffed dish of Liguria, a region famous for its delicate, aromatic cuisine. This complex cold cut, or *salume*, consists of a pocket carved into a piece of *veal breast* and filled with a rich, herbaceous stuffing (*ripieno*) of ground meat, eggs, cheeses, and aromatic vegetables, sometimes including offal like sweetbreads. The preparation is meticulous—the pocket must be sewn shut and then gently poached for hours before being pressed and chilled. Served in paper-thin slices, it is an elegant and intensely flavorful antipasto.

📜 History: A Feast for the Holidays

Cima alla Genovese is an inherently luxurious dish due to the sheer quantity and variety of ingredients—a sharp contrast to the simplicity of other Ligurian fare like Pesto or Focaccia. Historically, the dish was reserved for *special holidays and Sunday feasts* in Genoa. The tedious preparation, which involves careful sewing and hours of poaching, marks it as a testament to the skill and dedication of Ligurian cooks. Because it is served cold, it remains a favorite for picnics, *antipasti* spreads, and summer gatherings.

🥩 Ingredients: The Rich Ripieno

The *stuffing (ripieno)* is what defines the dish. It is a harmonious, colorful mix of various textures and flavors:

*The Cima (Veal Breast):* Ask your butcher to prepare a pocket in the veal breast, leaving one side open for stuffing.
*Meat Base:* Ground veal or beef, often mixed with cooked sweetbreads, brain, or offal, though ground pork can substitute the latter for modern recipes.
*Aromatics:* Herbs are key in Liguria. Parsley, marjoram, and thyme provide the characteristic fragrant flavor.
*Binders & Flavor:* Generous amounts of grated *Parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano)*, ricotta, eggs, and breadcrumbs bind the filling. Peas and diced carrots provide color and sweetness.

A colorful bowl showing the raw stuffing mix for Cima alla Genovese, including ground meat, parsley, cheese, peas, and eggs. — Image 1: The stuffing (*ripieno*) must be a flavorful, aromatic, and colorful blend of meat, cheese, herbs, and vegetables.

🔪 The Technique: Stuffing, Sewing, and Pressing

Step 1: Stuffing and Sewing

Carefully fill the pocket of the veal breast with the stuffing mixture. *Do not overstuff it*—leave a little room since the filling will expand during cooking.
Using a large needle and kitchen twine, sew the opening of the pocket tightly shut. The stitches should be secure and close together to prevent the filling from escaping.

A raw veal breast pocket, stuffed with the filling and currently being sewn shut with kitchen twine and a large needle. — Image 2: Sewing the pocket shut is a critical step to ensure the Cima holds its perfect shape during the long poaching process.

Step 2: Poaching and Simmering

Place the *cima* in a deep pot and cover it completely with cold water, adding salt, pepper, and simple aromatics (carrot, celery, onion) to create a mild broth.
Bring the water to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat immediately. The water should *never boil vigorously*.
Poach the *cima* gently for *2 to 3 hours*, or until the meat is fork-tender.

Step 3: Pressing and Chilling (The Key to Slicing)

Remove the *cima* from the broth and place it on a large, flat platter.
Place a clean cutting board or a second platter on top of the *cima*.
Weigh it down heavily with *several pounds of weights* (heavy cans, bricks, or cast iron pans).
Let the *cima* press at room temperature until cool, then transfer it, still pressed, to the refrigerator and *chill overnight*. This crucial step compresses the filling so it slices cleanly without crumbling.

The cooked Cima alla Genovese placed under a heavy cutting board and several weights (cans/bricks) for chilling and pressing. — Image 3: Pressing the Cima overnight is mandatory. It ensures the final product is dense and slices cleanly without falling apart.

Step 4: Serving

Before serving, carefully cut and remove the kitchen twine used for sewing.
Slice the Cima alla Genovese *very thinly* with a sharp knife.
Serve cold as an *antipasto*, often accompanied by a simple side of lemon wedges or a fresh green salad dressed with Ligurian olive oil.

Thin slices of Cima alla Genovese showing the colorful layers of the stuffing, served cold on a platter. — Image 4: The beautiful final presentation—cold, thin slices of the stuffed veal, showcasing the colorful layers.

💡 Troubleshooting & Chef's Notes

Issue	Cause	Solution/Tip
Stuffing bursts out.	Pocket was overstuffed, or the poaching liquid boiled too aggressively.	Sew the pocket with close, tight stitches. The liquid must remain at a bare, gentle simmer throughout the entire cooking time.
Slices crumble/fall apart.	Not pressed or chilled long enough.	The Cima must be pressed under heavy weights and chilled for a full 12–24 hours to achieve the necessary density for clean slicing.
Filling is dense/dry.	Not enough egg/ricotta binder or too much ground meat.	Ensure the stuffing mixture is moist before cooking. Some recipes recommend adding a splash of milk or a little of the poaching broth to the raw stuffing.