Ciceri e Tria (Puglian Pasta and Chickpea Stew)

Ciceri e Tria is a revered, ancient dish from the Salento region of Puglia. It is a hearty, vegetarian meal of tender chickpeas (ciceri) and simple semolina pasta (tria). What makes this dish truly unique and unforgettable is the ingenious addition of fried pasta—a portion of the tria is flash-fried until crisp and placed atop the stew. This textural contrast—soft chickpeas, tender pasta, and a shatteringly crisp garnish—is what transforms this humble peasant dish into a masterpiece of Southern Italian cuisine.

History: Ancient Roots and Arab Influence

The name tria derives from the Arabic word iṭriyah, meaning 'pasta' or 'noodle,' which points to the strong cultural influence of the Arab presence in Sicily and Southern Italy (Apulia) during the Middle Ages. The dish is so old that some food historians trace its lineage back to the Roman poet Horace (1st century BC), who wrote of a similar dish involving chickpeas and lagana (a kind of ancient flat pasta). Traditionally, this simple dish was prepared and served on the 19th of March for the Feast Day of San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph), a feast often associated with charity and meals for the poor.

Ingredients: Humble & Hearty

As with all cucina povera, the few ingredients must be of excellent quality to shine:

• Chickpeas (Ciceri): Dried chickpeas are traditionally used (soaked overnight). The liquid they cook in becomes the base of the stew, so plan to start this step the day before.
• Tria Pasta: This is a fresh, ribbon-shaped pasta (similar to tagliatelle but wider, shorter, and often made without eggs) using only semolina flour and water.
• Aromatics: Garlic and extra virgin olive oil are the essential flavor carriers. Rosemary, chili flakes (peperoncino), and bay leaf are optional but traditional additions to the broth.
• Olive Oil for Frying: Use a clean, fresh olive oil for flash-frying the pasta portion.

The Cooking Process: The Texture Divide

Step 1: Cook the Chickpeas and Flavor the Broth

• Soak the chickpeas overnight (or for at least 12 hours). Drain and rinse.
• Cook the chickpeas in fresh water until tender (about 1–1.5 hours), salting them toward the end. Reserve all the cooking liquid.
• In a separate, wide pot, heat olive oil and sauté whole garlic cloves, rosemary, and chili flakes until fragrant.
• Add the cooked chickpeas to the pot, followed by several ladlefuls of the chickpea cooking liquid to create a simple, simmering stew. Crush a few chickpeas against the side of the pot to naturally thicken the broth.

Step 2: Fry the Tria (The Crispy Part)

• Divide the fresh tria pasta dough into two portions (roughly 1/3 for frying, 2/3 for boiling).
• Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a skillet to approximately 350°F (175°C).
• Working quickly in batches, fry the small portion of the tria ribbons until they are golden brown and shatteringly crisp (about 30–60 seconds).
• Remove the crispy pasta to a plate lined with paper towels and lightly salt them immediately. This is your garnish.

Step 3: Combine and Serve

• Cook the remaining (larger) portion of the tria pasta in boiling, salted water until al dente (usually just 1–2 minutes for fresh pasta).
• Drain the boiled pasta and add it directly to the simmering chickpea stew. Toss to coat and combine thoroughly, adding more chickpea liquid if needed for moisture.
• Serve the stew hot in deep bowls, ensuring a good balance of liquid, chickpeas, and soft pasta.
• Garnish each serving immediately by topping it with a generous pile of the crispy, fried tria.

💡 Troubleshooting & Chef's Notes

Texture is everything in this dish. Use this table for quick adjustments: